House Training Your English Bulldog Puppy

Veterinary Exam: Urine/Fecal Check

We take great precautions to ensure your puppy is healthy. We treat every puppy with a preventive parasite and deworming treatment several times before they go to their new home. 

Please understand that it is totally normal for puppies to have parasites. Even with treatment, keeping a litter 100% clear is difficult because puppies are… well, puppies! They don’t shake hands; they greet by licking, and they are notorious for investigating feces. They pass things back and forth constantly.

Optimal Nutrition: High-Quality Protein for Proper Growth”

A consistent diet of a high-quality, premium brand dry kibble is the foundation of a healthy Bulldog. At BigBulldogs.com, we use and recommend Nextlevel Pro 30 which is a “All life Stages Formula”

• Protein for Proper Growth: Bulldogs grow very rapidly. They require adequate, high-quality protein to support their muscle development and help prevent bone and joint issues during these fast-growing months.

• The “No Table Scraps” Rule: Avoid feeding your puppy table scraps or human food. This not only prevents obesity but also keeps their sensitive digestive systems stable.

• For training, I recommend using small pieces of the Next Level kibble as your primary treats. Using their actual food keeps their digestion stable and ensures they aren’t filling up on “junk” calories.

  To get the best results, try to schedule your training sessions when your puppy is just a little bit hungry—usually right before their scheduled mealtime. This naturally increases their focus and motivation, making them much more eager to work for every single piece of kibble.

• A Note on Wet Food: We recommend avoiding canned dog food. It often leads to loose stools, which makes the housetraining process much more difficult for both you and the puppy.

The “Golden Rule” of Supervision

Close, active supervision is essential whenever your puppy is not in their crate. To make this easier, we recommend keeping your puppy on a harness and a long leash while indoors until they are 100% potty trained.

• Preventing the “Hidden” Accident: It only takes a few seconds for a puppy to soil the floor. A leash prevents them from wandering into another room or out of your sight to find a “secret” spot.

• Reading the Signs: Watch for tell-tale behaviors like circling, intense floor-sniffing, or sudden restlessness.

• The Training Advantage: By keeping them physically close to you, you can catch these signs immediately and get them outside to their designated spot before the accident happens.

Safe Confinement: The “Den” Concept

When you cannot provide 100% active supervision, crate training or a small, confined area is the most effective way to keep your puppy safe and your floors clean. When introduced correctly, a crate becomes a secure “den” where your Bulldog can relax without the stress of wandering.

• A Tool for Success: Crating is a humane, efficient way to prevent housetraining accidents and keep your puppy from chewing on dangerous household items while you are busy or away.

• The “No Punishment” Rule: Never use the crate as a place for anger or punishment. It should always be a positive, calm space. While brief “time-outs” to settle down are fine, the goal is for your puppy to enjoy being in their space.

• The Importance of Balance: Confinement must be balanced with plenty of human companionship, interactive play, and exercise. Bulldogs are social creatures; leaving them isolated for excessive periods can lead to “kennel syndrome” behaviors like hyperactivity, destructive chewing, or excessive barking.

• Out of Sight, Out of Mind: During the night or nap times, never allow the puppy to be crated in the same room where you are sleeping. If they can see or hear you, they are much more likely to cry and fuss to get out. Placing the crate in a separate, quiet room helps them learn to self-soothe and settle down much faster.

Mapping the Zones: Safety, Grey, and Danger

To take the guesswork out of housebreaking, you need to track your puppy’s natural rhythm. By keeping a simple diary of every time your puppy urinates or defecates for 3–5 days, you can calculate their specific “Zones.”

• The Safety Zone: Once you track the puppy for a few days, determine the shortest amount of time they usually go between “bathroom breaks.” Subtract 15 to 30 minutes from that number. This is your Safety Zone.

  • Example: If your puppy usually needs to go every 60 minutes, your Safety Zone is 30–45 minutes. During this window, they can generally be trusted to hold it, provided they haven’t just finished a large bowl of water.

• The Grey Zone: This is the 15–30 minute window you subtracted. During this time, the “pressure” is building. You should be heading toward the door and watching for any signs of sniffing or circling.

• The Danger Zone: Any time past their average interval is the Danger Zone. An accident is almost guaranteed if they aren’t already outside.

Important Reminder: Even during the “Safety Zone,” your puppy must be under close supervision. A Safety Zone only works if the puppy is starting with an empty bladder and isn’t left completely unattended.

Timing the Trip: Frequency and Life Stages

Successful housebreaking depends on giving your dog frequent opportunities to succeed. Puppies typically need to urinate almost immediately after they eat, drink water, play, chew, or wake up from a nap.

• Puppies (under 6 months): Most puppies over 10 weeks old need to go out between 5 and 10 times a day. If they are active and drinking, expect the higher end of that range.

• Adolescent Dogs (6 to 11 months): As they grow, their bladder capacity increases, but they still require 4 to 6 trips outside daily to maintain their training.

• Adult Dogs: A healthy adult Bulldog should be taken out 3 to 4 times a day.

• Senior Dogs: Like puppies, elderly dogs need more frequent breaks—at least 3 to 4 times daily—though those with incontinence issues will need even more frequent access to the yard.

A Note on Immunizations: If your puppy is not yet fully immunized, ensure they only have access to a secure, private backyard. Avoid public parks or areas where unknown dogs frequent until your vet gives the “all clear.”

The “No-Business, No-Entry” Rule

The first trip outside in the morning is the most important part of your puppy’s day. After being crated overnight, they must go out immediately—before they even have a chance to sniff the floor indoors.

• Patience is Key: Be prepared to stay outside until the job is done. For some puppies, this takes two minutes; for others, it can take much longer. Do not play or wrestle during this time—keep it boring and focused on the “business” at hand.

• Lavish Praise: The moment your puppy eliminates outdoors, make a huge deal out of it! Use a high-pitched, happy voice and offer plenty of praise so they associate “going” outside with making you happy.

• The “In-and-Out” Protocol: If you absolutely must go back inside before they have finished, do not let them loose. Place them directly back into their crate for 15–30 minutes, then try again.

• Avoid the “Fake Out”: If you bring a puppy back into the house before they have fully eliminated, an accident is almost guaranteed. If they didn’t go outside, they will go inside.

The “Potty Command”: Training for Efficiency

Bulldogs are smart, but they can also be easily distracted by a passing butterfly or a interesting leaf. To speed up your trips outside, we recommend using a specific “Potty Command” (like “Go Potty” or “Hurry Up”).

• Label the Action: The very second your puppy begins to eliminate, say your chosen command in a calm, positive voice.

• The Reward Timing: As soon as they finish, follow up immediately with lavish praise and a small piece of Next Level kibble.

• Creating the Association: Eventually, your puppy will associate that specific word with the act of going. This is a lifesaver when it’s raining outside or when you’re in a rush and need them to get down to business quickly!

Accidents Happen: How to React

If you catch your puppy in the act of soiling indoors:

• Interrupt, Don’t Scold: Give a firm, sudden “Oops!” or “Outside!” to startle them into stopping.

• Straight to the Spot: Immediately pick them up (or lead them by their harness/leash) and take them to their designated outdoor potty spot to finish.

• Praise the Finish: If they finish even a tiny bit outside, praise them as if they just won a gold medal.

• Clean Thoroughly: Use an enzymatic cleaner to remove the scent completely. If they can still smell it, they will think that spot is a designated bathroom.

If you find an accident after the fact:

• Do Not Punish: Do not rub their nose in it or scold them. Puppies live in the “now”; they won’t understand why you are angry about something that happened ten minutes ago.

• Check Your Logs: Take a look at your “Safety Zone” diary—you likely missed a timing window or a subtle sign. Simply clean it up and resolve to watch closer next time.

Early Socialization: Building a Confident Bulldog

Early and ongoing interactive socialization with a variety of friendly people—including calm, well-behaved children—is vital for your puppy’s development. A well-socialized Bulldog is a confident, happy companion.

• Bring the World to Them: If your puppy is not yet fully immunized for walks, invite friends and family to your home. Exposure to different voices, heights, and outfits (like hats or coats) helps them realize that “new” is “good.”

• The “Carry-Along” Strategy: You don’t have to wait for full shots to show your puppy the world. After their second series of vaccinations, you can carry your puppy to public places to acclimate them to the sights and sounds of traffic, crowds, and outdoor activity.

• Safety First: When taking an unimmunized puppy out, never place them on the sidewalk or street, and keep them away from other dogs or areas where unknown dogs may have been. Think of it as a “sightseeing tour” from the safety of your arms.

• Positive Associations: Bring a few pieces of Next Level kibble along during these outings. Rewarding your puppy while they watch a loud truck go by or meet a stranger helps them associate the busy world with a tasty treat.

The “Payday”: Praise & Rewards for Success

Timing is everything. To a puppy, a reward given even sixty seconds too late is just a “random snack.” To effectively communicate that they’ve done the right thing, the reward must happen the very instant they finish.

• Immediate Feedback: Lavish praise and a “trigger word” (such as “Potty,” “Business,” or “Good Boy/Girl”) must happen immediately following elimination in the right place.

• Be the Witness: You cannot train a puppy from the kitchen window. You must be physically present outdoors to witness the act so you can offer praise the moment it happens. Delayed praise is ineffective and confusing to a young dog.

• High-Value Rewards: Keep a small handful of Next Level kibble in your pocket during every potty break. When they finish, give them a piece along with your verbal praise.

• Clear Communication: By consistently pairing the action with the reward, you are teaching your Bulldog that “going” outdoors is the most profitable thing they can do all day!

 

Managing the Environment: Eliminating “Secret Spots”

Puppies often develop a preference for specific surfaces. To a young Bulldog, a soft rug or a patch of carpet feels very similar to the grass outside. Part of successful training is simply removing the opportunity to make a mistake.

• Limit Access to Risky Surfaces: Keep your puppy away from carpeted rooms or expensive rugs whenever possible during the initial training phase. Stick to easy-to-clean, hard flooring where you can easily spot and neutralize any accidents.

• The “Out of Sight” Warning: If your puppy suddenly trots out of the room or runs out of your line of sight, they aren’t just exploring—they are likely looking for a “secret spot” to eliminate.

• Close the Doors: Keep bedroom and bathroom doors closed. If a puppy can sneak away into a quiet guest room, they will quickly turn it into their private indoor bathroom.

• Tethering is Your Friend: This is where the harness and long leash mentioned earlier become your best tool. If they are attached to you, they can’t “sneak” anywhere.

---

BigBulldogs Pro-Tip: The Surface Habit

If your puppy does have an accident on a rug, they will likely return to that exact same spot because of the scent. Use a high-quality enzymatic cleaner immediately to break the habit before it starts.

Odor Neutralization: Breaking the Habit

If your puppy has an accident despite your best efforts, you must neutralize the area completely. A puppy’s nose is much more sensitive than yours; if they can still smell even a trace of urine, they will be drawn back to that exact spot to “go” again.

 

• The Vinegar Solution: For an effective, home-made neutralizer that is safe for both your carpet and furniture, use a vinegar and water solution. This helps break down the enzymes in the urine without damaging your home.

   
   

• The “Ammonia” Trap: Never use ammonia-based cleaners to clean up puppy accidents. Ammonia breaks down into urea—a primary component of urine. To a puppy, an ammonia-cleaned floor smells like a giant neon sign saying, “Potty Here!”

• Enzyme-Based Cleaners: For deep-pile carpets or stubborn spots, we recommend a high-quality pet odor neutralizer. These products “eat” the organic matter in the urine, removing the scent entirely rather than just masking it with perfume.

   
   

---

BigBulldogs Pro-Tip: The “Scent-Free” Standard

Once you’ve cleaned an area, if you still see your puppy sniffing that specific spot intensely, clean it again. Their nose is the ultimate test!

 

Evening Routine: Managing Water Intake

To ensure everyone gets a good night’s sleep, we advise taking up your puppy’s water bowl 3 hours before bedtime.

• Exceptions: If the weather is exceedingly hot or your puppy seems unusually thirsty, offer a small amount.

• Pro-Tip: A couple of ice cubes are a great way to provide a little hydration without filling the bladder right before the final crate-time.

Health Barriers to Training: Parasites & Diarrhea

Your puppy cannot be expected to be reliable if they are unwell.

• Parasite Check: If you suspect worms, coccidia, fleas, or ticks, contact your vet immediately. Internal parasites are a major hurdle to consistent stools.

• The Diarrhea Factor: Loose or mucousy stools make it physically impossible for a puppy to “hold it.” If your puppy has digestive upset, pause the training expectations and focus on getting their health back on track with your vet.

Discipline: What Works (and What Doesn’t)

• No After-the-Fact Discipline: Never punish a dog for an accident you did not witness. Even if you find a mess two minutes later, they cannot connect the punishment to the action.

• Submissive/Excitement Urination: This is involuntary. Eye contact, loud voices, or reaching over their head can trigger a “piddle.” Scolding them for this will only make the problem worse. Stay calm and low-key during greetings.

• The BigBulldogs Newspaper Trick: If you find an accident you missed, take a rolled-up newspaper and hit yourself over the head while repeating: “I forgot to watch my dog!” It is a reminder that supervision is the owner’s responsibility.

The “Scent Transition” Strategy

If your pup keeps going in the same spot, their nose is leading them there.

1. Neutralize: Use your white vinegar solution (spot check first!) to kill the scent indoors.

2. Relocate: Use a piece of newspaper to soak up a tiny bit of the accidental urine, then take that paper to the specific spot in the yard where you want them to go.

3. The Target: Weigh the paper down with a stone. When you walk your pup to that spot, the familiar scent will trigger them to go there. Praise them lavishly when they perform!

---

The BigBulldogs 3-Step Fast-Track Program

Step 1: Establishing the Routine The crate is your best friend. It teaches the puppy that they have a “home” to keep clean, which creates the opportunity for you to take them out on a regular schedule. Use the same door and the same commands every time. Repetition is the mother of skill.

Step 2: Teaching the Signal Your dog needs to learn how to ask “please.” When you get to the door, wait a moment before opening it. Look for any sign—a whimper, a scratch, or a sit. Accept any sign at first, then shape it into the specific signal (like a bark) that you prefer.

Step 3: Managing the Mistake (The Correction) To truly learn, a dog must understand what not to do. After a nap or meal, keep them on a leash or remote collar. If they start to “go” in the house, give a firm “NO” correction immediately to interrupt them. Move them outside to their spot instantly, and when they finish there, shower them with praise.

---

Todd Howard and BigBulldogs.com remind you: A well-trained Bully equals a happy owner. Invest the time and energy now, and you’ll reap the rewards for years to come. Happy Training!